Welcome to HOLIDAY West Highland - Discover the West Highlands

Falls of Lora - stunning tidal rapids

Author Holiday West Highland

WHEREVER you go in the West Highlands you’ll see lochs, some fast-flowing, some sleepy, all of them beautiful. At the village of Connel when the tide is right you will see the fantastic rapids known as the Falls of Lora where stunning Loch Etive meets the tidal flows of the sea.

This is a sight to behold as the loch is higher than sea level and when the loch waters level with the sea it’s a fine fast-flowing spectacle. Canoeists regard the falls as a great challenge and it’s great watching them fight the flow. Connel is at the mouth of Loch Etive and the home of one of the best-known landmarks in the West Highlands - the Connel Bridge. This cantilever bridge opened in 1903 and is a popular vantage point for watching the famous falls at high tide. The main road near the bridge is also the place to watch fabulous sunsets over the island of Lismore and the Morvern hills that will stay in your mind for ever. Connel itself grew in the late 1600s to service the ferry from here to North Connel long before the bridge was built. The nearby Connel airfield (actually at North Connel) was a Second World War airstrip and is now being completely renovated and restored to create an airfield which will cater for scheduled flights. Creagan Bridge, straddling Loch Creran, was installed in recent times to cut out a bendy, windy road round the loch but you should take some time out to go along this quiet track. The head of the loch in Glen Creran is at the foot of some stunning mountain scenery.

You might even spot a golden eagle gliding high above the peaks looking for food, even oyster catchers, seals and otters.

The area round Loch Creran is a Special Area of Conservation. It was the setting for Robert Louis Stevenson ’s novel Kidnapped. From here it’s onward into the historic district of Appin to which a separate page is devoted in this edition of Holiday West Highlands. Crossing the bridge takes you to North Connel and the road north to Fort William and there are plenty of places to see en route. North Connel not only covers the left side of the main road to Fort William, it’’s also on the right along the narrow road to Bonawe quarry on the shores of Loch Etive.

This road takes you past historic Ardchattan Priory, founded in 1230 by Duncan McDougall for the Valliscaulian order of monks. Its gardens are open to the public between April and October. Here also is buried Colin Campbell, known as The Red Fox, who was the victim of the infamous Appin Murder. He was an official of the Hanoverian government who was murdered in 1752 probably by Alan Breck Stewart whose kinsman James of the Glen was hanged for the crime.

Back on the Fort William road and the next village is Benderloch. This pretty village lines both sides of the road and there are some really fine walks to be found here, both gentle strolls or the more arduous trek up Ben Lora whose summit offers spectacular views. Ardmucknish Bay has a splendid long curved beach ideal for walking or exercising your dog. It’’s a perfect picnic place and is easily accessible from the village car park or by foot from the South Shian road. Wherever you see the ‘Forestry Commission Scotland’ sign, the woodland is yours to enjoy on foot, bike or horseback. At most sites, a carpark and waymarked trails will be easy to find, but there could also be picnic tables or a wildlife hide and you can be sure that we’ll point out any places of interest, natural or historic. You’ll discover some of the best forests of Scotland in Argyll and the Islands. From the Isle of Mull to the Mull of Kintyre, from wave-tossed shore, through tranquil glen, over mountain slope. Wildlife abounds, from otter to eagle to dragonfly. And history beckons, amongst the ruins of Aoineadh Mòr clearance township in Lochaline and the ancient woodlands of Glen Nant near Taynuilt, Lochaweside and Knapdale near Lochgilphead, which has stunning views of Jura and Scarba from its trails.

Visit Beinn Lora in Benderloch or Aros Park on Mull for wonderful coastal views, or stroll along the gentle lochside route accessible to all at Glencoe Lochan. Cycle along mile after mile of quiet forest roads with better views around every corner or try the Achnabreck Fire Tower Trail, a compact, red and black-graded mountain bike trail near Lochgilphead – only for the intrepid mountain biker!

For more information about the forests of north Argyll, call 01631 566155 or email lorne.district@forestry.gsi.gov.uk For more information on the forests of mid and west Argyll and Kintyre, call 01546 602518 or email west.argyll.fd@forestry.gsi.gov.uk or pick up a free leaflet from local Tourist Information Centres or shops or visit our website: www.forestry.gov.uk/scotland

The next village, Barcaldine, is set back from the present Fort William road and there are a lot of forestry walks nearby. You can park in the forest itself and simply set off . There are bike trails, too. One place just outside Barcaldine you and your kids will adore is the famous Scottish SEA LIFE Sanctuary.