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Lismore - Gaelic - Lios Mòr ‘The great garden’

Author Holiday West Highland

The green and fertile island of Lismore lies in Loch Linnhe in a natural amphitheatre of the highest mountains in Britain. Ben Nevis is clearly visible to the north and the wild granite of Morvern to the west, but Lismore is always a surprise in the midst of this rugged landscape.

It is gentle and undulating; a rare spur of limestone, which gives rise to a profusion of wild flowers and birdlife. Long and narrow, Lismore is around 11 miles long by little over a mile wide, and its closeness to the mainland makes it a perfect day out with a choice of two ferries which both land within easy reach of some of the best places to visit on the island. Lismore’s fertility and accessibility has attracted people from the earliest times, and over the centuries they left a landscape rich in monuments making it a superb place to discover the heritage of Argyll.

It has the finest broach in Argyll and the largest Bronze Age cairn, and has produced an archaeological find of a massive bronze armlet so important that it has to be displayed at the National Museum of Scotland rather than in the Lismore Museum (although a replica can be seen there). Lismore became a highly important centre for Iron Age peoples around 2000 years ago, and much later was chosen by the Celtic monk St Moluag, as the base for his mission to the Picts in the 6th century. It reached another peak in the 13th century under the Chiefs of the Clan MacDougall who built two spectacularly sited castles on the west side.

Later still, islanders turned its very rocks into a thriving industry producing lime; limekilns still dot the landscape. The story of Lismore has been encapsulated in a new award-winning museum at Ionad Naomh Moluag, which was opened last year by the Comann Eachdraidh Lios Mòr (Lismore Historical Society). It lies close to many of the monuments and is the focal point for discovering the island. The museum began with a project to reconstruct a thatched cottar’s house, and this now stands alongside a truly 21st century building, which is an attraction and talking point in itself. It has a ‘living’ turf roof, geothermal heating and walls lined with sheep’s wool.

Its displays, café and shop make a welcome stopping point, and on summer days the Lismore Café is busy with walkers and cyclists resting over excellent coffee and a slice of homemade cake or a delicious lunch made from local produce –often basking in sunshine on the veranda while rain clouds glower 20 miles away over Ben Nevis. There are many ways of discovering the island, and these can be found in a new booklet of Lismore Heritage Trails produced by the museum.

Including maps, circular walks, heritage and nature notes. The Trails guide is an indispensable item in the rucksack. Lismore has no formal paths and its natural landscape is its greatest asset. The walking guide will direct you to the best places and loveliest views, taking advantage of gates and new stiles, and along the driest routes. Many visitors who come to Lismore for the day often talk of coming back for a longer stay.

The island website www.isleoflismore.com has a full list of accommodation, which ranges from bed and breakfast to some delightful holiday cottages. It is also a good place to find out what’s on this summer. It is worth stopping by the island shop, just ½ mile from the museum. The Lismore shop has occupied the same building for more 100 years, and is famous for having everything from oatcakes to capers, and postcards to hand-made jewellery. It has won awards for its friendliness and service.

Small businesses on Lismore produce many quality items, from soft fruit to designer textiles. Locally produced beef and lamb is also available, reared on herb-rich pasture and noted for its flavour. Best of all though, are Lismore’s people. You will get a friendly welcome and a wave as you go along the road. Enjoy your Lismore experience!

GETTING THERE

The two ferries offer quite different experiences, and are very much part of the ‘day out’. Oban to Achnacroish (Caldeonian Mac- Brayne car ferry) 50 minutes. On a fine summer’s day a trip on the ‘Eigg’ is a delightful journey with superb views to the islands of Kerrera and Mull, and good bird watching from the deck. If you are lucky you will see porpoise.

Port Appin to Point (passenger ferry) - under 10 minutes. This ferry runs hourly through the day and into the evening during the season. Small and full of character, the ferry takes just 20 passengers and a staggering number of bikes, and will repeat the crossing if full.

GETTING ABOUT

The museum and café are 2½ miles from Achnacroish and 3½ miles from Point, and the island is perfect for walking and cycling, with bike hire on the island (delivered to the ferry) and at Port Appin. A post-bus meets the Oban boat in the morning and afternoon with the pick-up point at the Lismore shop.

There is also an island taxi service and a community minibus can be hired for special group trips. This summer a pony and trap will occasionally meet the ferry from Port Appin and transport you at an old-fashioned pace along to the museum 3½ miles down the road.

MUST SEE and MUST DO’S

It all starts or finishes with Ionad Naomh Moluag, the Gaelic Heritage museum and reconstructed croft house, café, shop, library, family history resource …wet weather refuge (not that it ever rains in Argyll)…. Make sure you have a copy of the Heritage Trails (available at the Oban Tourist Office, local shops, the museum, and at ‘honesty boxes’ at the Lismore piers).

Tirfuir Broch – a well-preserved Iron Age monument from 2000 years ago.

Castle Coeffin – medieval castle of the Chiefs of Clan MacDougall.

Cathedral Church of St Moluag –sited halfway between the two ferries.

Achanduin Castle – the main MacDougall castle (more of a trek, but worth it).

Port Ramsay – a picturesque row of old cottages.

Lismore is a farming island. Give livestock a wide berth and keep your dogs on a lead remember that cows with calves can be dangerous. Please close gates and take your litter home.